AntsHungary presents: How to raise an ant colony? the ant colony’s raising starts with a test tube. fill the clean test tube with some water theen put a piece of wool in it not too tight and not too loosely pull down the wool with a hooked wire expressly. only until the water level not along! than put the ant queen in this test tube. this test tube will guarantee the humidity for a long time the end of the test tube also close with a piece of wool it let through the air so gives the optimal breeze for the hatching test tube. the queen feels safe herself in this tight, closed test tube and the humidity imitate the underground conditions most of the claustral ant species don’t claim feeding at the first time, but we recommend to feeding every species from the beginning, to helps their successfull colony founding. most species needs to feed with honey and insects only some harvester species deflect from it. put a small honey at the side of the test tube with a hooked wire put only a few from it, less than a drop. we should think how big our ant, and how big her stomach possibly if we think this, we won’t make that mistake to give too much honey them and they stick in it. recommend to cut half the insects for the ants they will easily access to the soft parts in it. then put the test tube in warm, dark, calm and vibration-free place when the queen can laying eggs leisurely. can guarantee the darkness if package the test tube in a piece of cellophane. some days later the queen is laying down her first eggs. this time we don’t have much work, just to take care for the feeding and keep the test tube clean. give them half-cutted insect pieces 2 times a week and 1 or 2 days later clear off them before they deteriorate after a few weeks the eggs develop.. …first for larva, ..after for puppae. larvae eats protein already, so this time important the feeding regularly. first workers will hatch from the puppae. with the small and mediom sized ants it needs 4-6 weeks from egg to worker but with some big sized spices this time could be 2 and half months even. If the test tube became dirty during the hatching we have to move the queen and the brood into a new, clean test tube. it’s much easier now, than when have workers if the surface of the cotton covered by mould, or the water discoloured, it could be a dangerous habitat for the ants, so have to move them for a new tube. we need the following tools for the transfer: first top up the new test tube with the earlier mentioned method, then put the queen into the new one. finally have to move the brood carefully. need a small drop of water. watering a bit the hair of the brush, so the brood will stick to it and we can move them carefully to the new test tube. the brush has soft hairs wich don’t damage the brood. try to move all of the eggs. don’t have to put them for the same place, the queen will put them to a heap. 🐜 Subscribe! 🐜 – and check the next episode. 🙂
If you don’t know Temnothorax species, you should know they are tiny species and found small colonies. They can live lifelong in the FormiKIT micro formicarium. Here can see the queen. The moister spoinge is a bit dirty in this formicarium, i should replace it to a new one. But how can we do this, to avoid their escape? Check this, here is the first trick! We will replace the sponge and the colony will stay in the formicarium during. The FormiKIT Micro include 6 screws we will get out 5 from these. We will leave only the roofing’s screw. The formicarium won’t come aparts, but we can slide carefully the nest’s top layer. Take out the old sponge, and put the new one into. Then slip back the top layer. We have some deserters of course. Don’t afraid, just put them back with a brush. Finally close and assemble the formicarium. You can see the new sponge is much cleaner! This sponge is really thin, as can see before. This is important. Don’t forget: it can store only a few water, so really important to moister it regularly, at least 1-2 times a week. Temnothorax species don’t need high humidity, but they also drink sometimes. Put a piece of tape on the moister hole, to slow down the evaporating. I raised up them a bit. They are trying to hide in the pole and guarding the queen. We can clean up the dirty arena with a humid cotton wool. I show you a mature colony too. The winged male ants this year appeared in this colony. You can see they have massive brood. This is how looks a mature colony in the Temnothorax species. But they are still no more than 5 centimeter. I show you the 2nd trick with this colony. Need a small piece of wool, and a hooked tweezer. When all ants in the nest-part, close the entrance with the wool. Take out the 4 screws from the arena. If you take apart the arena like this you can wiping and cleaning it, just how you want. Don’t have to worry about the escapes during the cleaning. The two screws still keeps in gross the nest-part. If we finished with the cleaning assemble it again and give food for the ants. You can see a new-born worker in this scene. They has this bright color after born, during the first day. She looks just like a “ghost-ant” 🙂 This colony get honey, … …cockroach pieces, … …and shattered nut pieces for food. It seems they like the cockroach mostly now. You can put the formicarium in different ways, but don’t forget: the water in the sponge will always goes downwards. Thanks for watching! You can find the own-designed FormiKIT Micro formicarium on our ant-site! If you enjoyed, don’t forget to subscribe to the AntsHungary’s YouTube channel! 🙂
Hello everyone, this is a new antsite video In this episode we are going to rebuild an ant city. Keep watching until the end – i promise it will be super exciting… This is an old formicarium A thriving weaver ant colony lived in it before. You can saw this colony in some previous videos, or even personally on terraristic exhibitions. This colony lived 2, 2 and half year long in this formicarium. So the goal is to populate again this formicarium with a thriving ant colony. We have chance now to rebuild this system, so why don’t we upgrade a bit this whole formicarium to be more spectacular? You know i have plenty of creativity, so i find out a cylinder shape instead of the previous brick. This is more elegant and even more spectacular. Then I want something more in my mind.. If the weaver ants can get an own tower, why don’t they get an own city instead? This is the story how comes the idea to build an ant city. The structure build up from three different towers, with three outside gallery between them. There are three escape-prevent edge, and three openable ventilation grid on the top of the towers. There are more ventilation grids on two place at the sides, for the better breezing. There are many carcase laying on the floor of the old formicarium. Also can find tainted, unhatched larvae somewhere. The diameter of the biggest cylinder was planned for the size of the old bonsai tree. Meanwhile we get a big family of weaver ants so they will move into the new place. You can see what a massive nest they built in their previous home. They weaved almost everything for nest in the left formicarium, and there are many of workers in the left formicarium also. The ant city looks much amazing after the furnish. The old bonsai tree also looks epic in it, and i put another, smaller bonsai tree inside. Ants can hide between it’s roots. The ant city looks like a real metropolis after the ants have moved in. Every ants working on it’s own task busily. Some of them are building new home and others throwing out the garbage from the old nest. Every ants run fast to their work on the busy trails. After the settlement the ants moved in the old nest at the top of the tree immediately, and they start to throwing out the old larvaes and garbage from it. I didn’t record video from the settlement, because I have put them through almost one by one during an afternoon. It wasn’t too interesting for a video you can believe. An now let’s see the freshly building new nest. One day after the settlement some ants gathered spectacularly between the roots. At that time we could guess what they planning, and a few times later the first strings just appear. The ants just start to weaving their new nest. Catch their larvae in their mouth and working busy on the building operations, so they pass so much with the building on the first day! A few days later the new nest starts to equal to it’s final form. The walls became more stronger as the ants wave more and more layers on it. They use every kind of building material, this reason there are black and green threads in the walls which comes from the fake grass which covers the floor. Meanwhile they start to renew the old nest at the top of the tree. They have repaired the entrances, and they start to build together the nest with the wall of the cylinder. Can see well the fresh silks with brighter color than the old weaves. We can see inside the nest through the formicarium wall. There are many of workers and larvae working hard inside. That workers who don’t work, they guarding in a typical position on the most important strategy places. Sometimes we can notice winged males (drones) in the colony. The smallest, sloping tower still empty, because I give them food and water here. I put a test tube with full of water here, and they start to use it ardently. Hopefully they won’t drown in the open water, if this happens i have to find out another method for watering. There is a build in thermometer at the side of the formicarium. The back of the thermometer have to cover with grid, to avoid them to move inside it. Those areas where the ants feel the ventilation of the air, they try to discover new places. They stick out their antennae often through the dish to find out what is at the other side. A few workers waiting standby on the only door where no any escape-prevent oil around. But don’t worry, i never open this door. If they thirsty or hungry many workers start to raiding in their territory to find food or water. But of course their activity depends from the temperature and light also, in cooler temperature they goes inside the nest instead. And it seems they try to reach the lighter places – i think this could be some escaping instinct. It is such a catching sight, as these tiny insects organizing their society and living their everyday. We can admire them for hours, and can observe more and more interesting ant-things, but unfortunately our video is ending now, hope see you again next time! Don’t forget to like, subscribe and hit the 🔔 icon to get notifications for our new videos! 🙂
antsite.eu presents: How to raise an ant colony? – part: 3/B If the colony grows out the test tube, and it gets dirty, we possibly keep them in an open test tube. This is a “velvety tree ant” colony with hundreds of workers. Normally it’s a bad idea to open this test tube, but i show you a technique which we can use this time. Temporarily we can use a simple container box for it, but the best will be the formicarium – i will tell you later why. As first step we should put on some escape-prevent oil to the top of the container. This will prevent the ants to run away. Oiling only a few, otherwise the oil will leak down, and the ants will stick in it. Put the colony into the container, and open the test tube carefully. Ants will flooding out immediately, but they can’t run out from the box. Much easy to feeding such a big colony in this box than in the test tube. Even the ants have more space, and they can react if someting goes wrong in the test tube. In a closed test tube the water can flooding the ants, but with this open test-tube keeping method the whole colony can escape out from the tube. Put tinfoil on a clean test tube setup. Put this into the box and the ants will moving into this one later from the old and dirty test tube. They do it because they feels the darker and cleaner test tube more safety and comfortable. We can hurry them if we tip them out from the test tube, but this species spray formic-acid during stress so we don’t want as many ants to be suicide. Carefully get out the wool-pieces. The ants find the honey immediately – they really need enough food now. Throw some cutted worms also to give them protein. You can see the workers not really successfull on the escap-prevent oil. They can’t walk on this oiled surface. Few days later the ants has moved to the new test tube, so we can get out the old one. But make sure to tip out all of the workers from it. If we check them closer, we can see they moved all the brood with eggs and larvae to the new test tube. So this is a really effective method for moving a colony. The ants did it themselves, we only has to give the ideal conditions for them. Now let’s see the detriments: The escape-prevent oil will disappear from the top of the container within a few weeks. It goes dry or the ants put some dust on it, or somehow fight themselves through. So time to time we should put some fresh oil on it, and could be a good idea to close the container with a cap. But now i have to say another problem! If the box hasn’t got enough ventilation the colony inside can be suicide during stress with their formic-acid, or can choke without enough fresh air. Better ventilation or some soil could help on this, but the best final solution if we keep the ants in a formicarium. In this the ventilation optimal for sure, and we can observe the nest much better than in a test tube. So if we have a bigger formicarium we can use the arena-part similarly like the container before. But first we have to close the nest-part to prevent the ants to move in too early. Then put the test tube in the arena-part. We can use test-tube holder to prevent the rolling. Now open the test tube and let the spotters out. We put the food in the arena not into the test tube anymore. Can feed in small bowls or just simply on the ground of the arena, because acrylic formicariums are easy to clean. We can put in different kind of foods, and we can learn the ants to find the food themselves everywhere in the arena. If the test tube gets dirty or goes dry we can put in a new, clean test tube near the old, and the ants can move themselves within some days. If they don’t want to move Just tip them out from the old test tube and let the new one inside the arena, so they have to move into the new one. But with this method we will loss some brood, because some of the eggs and larvae will stick into the test tube, so we have to put them back carefully with a brush. So better if the ants move themselves. Our colony number will raising because of the more space and more food. It could happen some weeks or some months later – depends of the species. When they have enough workers to find every food in the arena the ants are ready to move in the formicarium’s nest-part. Important to wait until they have enough workers, because if we let them in too early the colony could move in, but maybe they won’t have enough workers to go out searching for food. It could emerge a crisis in the colony because they don’t have enough food to grow workers, but even don’t have enough workers to find food. The recommend worker number to open the nest is different – depends of the species. It could around 30-50 workers with a smaller species, but with a bigger species maybe 20 can be enough. After we open the nest-part the spotters will scout their new territory. If they find it suitable the whole colony will move in. Sometimes needs days for the moving – it depends from the colony number. Bigger colonies has more workers so they find the new place faster and moves themselves faster. After that we only have to feed and drink the colony, so we can observe as they grow more and more workers, and our ant-society grows up slowly. Don’t forget to like and subscribe, and hit the bell 🔔 icon! Click for the next episode!
Hi, this is Jordan updating you on my Pheidole
colony. The setup has changed a bit since my last
video. I moved the colony out of the old habitat nest and into this brick nest here. This nest if you remember was the nest which I used
to house my Iridomyrmex bicknelli colony before I released them. In order to get the colony to move out of
the old habitat nest what I did was attach up the new nest, and I watered it well and
covered it from any light. While I stopped watering the old nest and exposed it to light and the ants immediately started relocating. It’s important to cycle your colonies nests
like this as it prevents harmful mold and bacteria from taking over your nests, which
can really endanger the health of your colonies. Eventually, after giving it a good clean, I connected up the old nest again.
I cleaned it by removing the glass, soaking it in vinegar, using the garden hose to rinse
it off and after it was dry I glued the glass back on and attached it up. You can see they haven’t made great use
of it, only really using it for some of their pupae here. I watered both nests quite evenly
but, they much preferred the brick nest, I think it was due to the brick nest being more
water retentive so they prefer that moist environment. Here’s 2 of the 3 queens of the colony.
I find the queens are often bunched up together like this, although I rarely ever see all
3 together for some reason. The ants were in this setup for a couple of
months and were doing really well before I decided to alter their setup again. For some
time I had been considering creating a more naturalistic setup for my ants, that not only
my ants would appreciate but would look really nice too. After some research and planning
I began building a terrarium. So this is what I came up with. I wanted to
go with a desert theme, I’ve got some succulents and a few cacti in there at the moment. And
I’m likely going to be altering it later on, adding more plants, rocks and pebbles
and maybe a layer of sand too. Something that will contrast the colour of the plants well
and also the colour of the ants too, just to help them stand out a little more. So after I was satisfied with the terrarium,
I then introduced the ants. What I did was move the whole colony into this single nest
and then just placed it inside the terrarium. I just allowed for one exit point through
this tube here. That way I could channel the ants out in one direction and influence where
they would construct their first nesting site. I wanted it to be close to the front of the
terrarium that way I could observe them more easily and perhaps might even see them create
chambers up against the glass. The colony started digging straight away,
several locations at first but eventually they all converged on one site, this one right
at the end of the tube. And after only an hour or so of digging they began moving brood
in. Since then I’ve been watering their new nest entrance to encourage them to move
the remainder of their brood in. I’ve been keeping the brick nest covered
up from the light for now. I wanted to give the colony a
chance to dig out some decent sized chambers before exposing them to light and encouraging
them to move entirely. I plan on removing the brick nest eventually.
I’ll probably just leave it there for as long as they’re still making use of it. With this new setup, I obviously won’t be
able to see what’s going on in the nest anymore. I won’t be able to see what the
queens are up to, how much brood there is and new workers enclosing and whatnot. But
honestly I’m quite content with just watching the ants forage and build upon their new nest.
I actually did even get a glimpse of one of their underground chambers here which they’ve
filled with some pupae. They soon abandoned this chamber though. I suspect they built
it overnight and didn’t realize it would be exposed to light during the day, when sunlight
came they moved elsewhere. This glass tank is quite big, it’s almost
1m long and half a meter wide so the ants have plenty room to explore. It’s really
quite cool watching them forage around, climbing plants to drink honey off their leaves, creating
foraging trails which weave in and around the plants, rocks and watching them form new
nest entrances. I was observing this soldier ant here for
quite some time and it was being super productive, slicing off pretty much every limb off this
cockroach here. I’ve noticed the soldiers in general are more active in this new setup,
I guess it’s because they now have more roles to play. They’ve been helping dig
tunnels, slicing food up and hauling food back to the nest, guarding nest entrances.
Whereas before they rarely left the nest and mainly just acted as repletes and when they
did leave the nest, they were extremely shy, fleeing back to the safety of the nest at
the first hint of danger. I’ve been trying to feed the colony as often
as I can. I used to buy mealworms from a local pet store, but recently they’ve closed down.
So instead I’ve been searching the garden for insects to feed them. Which is good in
a way, they get whatever it is I find, and so, consume a variety of different foods,
which is far better for them than just have the same meal over and over again. It is more
time consuming for me to go out and search for food for them, but it’s not too much
of a hassle as this is now my last ant colony so I don’t need to worry about feeding multiple
colonies like I did in the past. Given this is my last colony I’m really
hoping they do well in this new environment. So far they look to be quite happy with the
new space, I’ve hardly ever seen any of the ants climbing the glass which is a good
sign they’re content with the environment. So if you’re into ant keeping I highly recommend
giving a naturalistic setup like this a go. They’re relatively cheap, easy to make,
maintain and look great. So that’s the end of the video, thanks for
watching and hope you got something out of this.
Let’s see how can we moving a queen ant into a test tube! Here are the ingredients. Here’s the queen, the empty test tube, the hooked wire, and two pieces of cotton wool. Load up the test tube about this level, as you can see, or maybe a little more. Then put one of the cotton wool into the the test tube. It has to close so tightly. Then with the hooked wire – carefully but with smoothly moves push down to the water level. Don’t make any bubbles if it’s possible. This wool will close the water from the queen. And finally you can move in the queen. This is her new home. And with the other wool we can close the tube. It breath a little, so the queen will have enough air inside.