How to Use Taurus SC Termiticide | DoMyOwn.com

How to Use Taurus SC Termiticide | DoMyOwn.com


Hey I’m Chris the Bug Guy from Domyownpestcontrol.com,
and today we are going to show you how to get rid of termites using Taurus SC. Taurus
SC is a non-repellent termiticide/insecticide with fipronil as the active ingredient. Many
professionals use Taurus SC because it is economical and kills termites quickly. Taurus
SC is a concentrate and is found in a 20 oz and 78 oz bottle. One 20 oz bottle will make
25 gallons and treat 60 lineal feet. The 78 oz bottle will make up to 100 gallons and
treat 250 lineal feet. Let’s go outside and we’re going to show you how to apply Taurus
SC in the trench around your house. Step 1 is digging the trench. The trench against
your house should be 6″ wide and 6″ deep. You can use a shovel or a pick axe, and the
trench will be directly against the foundation. Once you have dug the trench, it is 4 gallons
per 10 feet, 10 lineal feet, along the house. So you are going to mix in the termiticide,
make a line on the bucket if you need to for 4 gallons, and once it’s mixed we’re going
to evenly distribute it over the trench. So we have a 10′ section over here. You are going
to evenly distribute those 4 gallons over the 10′, and then move on to the next section.
By the time you get back around this should have dissipated into the soil. Now once you
have finished trenching and filling the trench with the termiticide, and it’s had time to
dissipate into the soil you need to put the back fill back into the trench. Now the dirt
right now is untreated. This is the dirt we took out of the trench, but you want to make
sure that you treat it before you put it back in because you don’t want a layer of untreated
soil on top of the treated soil. If termites happen to go right near the surface, they
are going to skip the termiticide you placed in the trench. So this is a lot easier with
two people. You want to mix some termiticide in a 1 gallon pump sprayer, and then you want
to have a shovel or a rake to push the dirt back in the trench. The person with the sprayer
is going to go ahead and start just wetting the dirt down, not so much that it is muddy,
but just start wetting the dirt down, and as you are pushing it back in with the shovel
or rake, the other person is going to wet it down. Just move on down the line. Let him
wet it down a little bit. As you shovel it back in they’re just going to wet down that
back fill and get it mixed well with the termiticide. Now your house is completely protected by
the professional termiticide. I hope you found this video useful. For more information click
here.

How to Use Bait Plate Stations for Ant & Roach Control

How to Use Bait Plate Stations for Ant & Roach Control


Hey I’m Chris the Bug Guy from Do My Own Pest Control dot com,
and today I’m going to do an overview of the Bait Plate Station. Bait Plate Stations can
be used for ants or roaches. Each bait station comes with two separate parts, a top and a
bottom, and they come together like this. As you can see, the insects will enter in
the front right here, and if you want to catch larger insects with this station, you will
remove the top like that. Typically you want to use a granular or a gel bait, giving the
insects an option to choose between a protein or a sweet bait. This is an example of a Bait
Plate Station. Each Bait Plate Station has two reservoirs. This is the granular bait,
or the protein, and then this is the liquid, or gel bait, which is the sugar. It also comes
with a set of glue dots. You take your glue dots and place them on the bait station so
you can secure your bait station to any surface. This product is clean, easy, and very affordable
so try it out at Do My Own Pest Control dot com

How to Use Dominion 2L Termiticide for a Termite Treatment

How to Use Dominion 2L Termiticide for a Termite Treatment


Hey I’m Chris the Bug Guy from domyownpestcontrol.com
and today we’re going to show you how to get rid of termites with Dominion 2L. Dominion
is a liquid non-repellent termiticide/insecticide that comes in a 27.5 oz bottle with the active
ingredient Imidicloprid. This one bottle can make 50 gallons and treat up to 120 lineal
feet, and it usually takes 2 bottles per home. Once Dominion 2L has been used, it usually
lasts up to 5-7 years before you have to re-treat. Let’s go outside and show you how to Dominion
in the trenches around your house. Step 1 is digging the trench. The trench against
your house should be 6″ wide and 6″ deep. You can use a shovel or a pick axe, and the
trench will be directly against the foundation. Once you have dug the trench, it is 4 gallons
per 10 feet, 10 lineal feet, along the house. So you are going to mix in the termiticide,
make a line on the bucket if you need to for 4 gallons, and once it’s mixed we’re going
to evenly distribute it over the trench. So we have a 10′ section over here. You are going
to evenly distribute those 4 gallons over the 10′, and then move on to the next section.
By the time you get back around this should have dissipated into the soil. Now once you
have finished trenching and filling the trench with the termiticide, and it’s had time to
dissipate into the soil you need to put the back fill back into the trench. Now the dirt
right now is untreated. This is the dirt we took out of the trench, but you want to make
sure that you treat it before you put it back in because you don’t want a layer of untreated
soil on top of the treated soil. If termites happen to go right near the surface, they
are going to skip the termiticide you placed in the trench. So this is a lot easier with
two people. You want to mix some termiticide in a 1 gallon pump sprayer, and then you want
to have a shovel or a rake to push the dirt back in the trench. The person with the sprayer
is going to go ahead and start just wetting the dirt down, not so much that it is muddy,
but just start wetting the dirt down, and as you are pushing it back in with the shovel
or rake, the other person is going to wet it down. Just move on down the line. Let him
wet it down a little bit. As you shovel it back in they’re just going to wet down that
back fill and get it mixed well with the termiticide. Now your house is completely protected by
the professional termiticide. I hope you found this video useful. For more information click
here.

Termites vs Ants – How to Tell the Difference Between Ants & Termites

Termites vs Ants – How to Tell the Difference Between Ants & Termites


Hey I’m Chris, the Bug Guy, from Domyownpestcontrol.com.
Today I’m going to help you determine yourself what is the difference between an ant and
a termite. There’s three distinct ways to determine between a termite and an ant. You
have body segment, you have wings, and then you have antennae. With ants you focus on
the body segments. The body segments are clearly separated between the head and the back region,
also known as the head, thorax, and abdomen. The wings in the front are bigger than the
wings in the back, also called the forewings and the hindwings. The antennae have an elbow
bend like this. Termite’s body segment has a head and tail region and there is no clear
distinct separation between those two. So you kind of have a head and a really large
body. Both wings are large and both are the same size. And then when you go to the antennae
they are very tiny and beaded and they point strait out. And that’s how you tell the difference
between ants and termites. Did you know? Termites are only found in sub-tropical and tropical
regions all over the world. Ants are found on any inhabitable continent. And did you
know there are over 2300 different types of termites worldwide, but there are over 12000
different types of ants worldwide. Whoa! Now that you know what pest you are dealing with,
you can click here to get rid of ants or click here to get rid of termites. For more videos
from Domyownpestcontrol.com subscribe here for more videos.

How to Use Glue Board Traps For Rodent and Insect Pests

How to Use Glue Board Traps For Rodent and Insect Pests


Hi my name is Erin and I’m with Do My Own
Pest Control dot com. Today I’m going to do an overview on glue boards, sometimes called
glue traps and sticky traps, but they are one of the best mouse traps. Glue boards come
in two sizes. They come in the mouse size and they also come in the rat size. They are
available scented and unscented. They’re great for catching rodents, snakes, and they’re
obviously great for catching household insects including spiders. These are glue boards that
have already been in use, and have already caught some little crawling insects. These
are really great, effective way to catch crawling insects, great monitoring tools especially
if you’re not sure what the type of insect you are dealing with. If you’re not sure what
rodent you’re dealing with, opt for the rat sized glue board. The rat sized glue board
will trap rats, mice, and insects. It’s a good choice if you’re not sure. If you know
you’re dealing with a mouse; if you know you’re dealing with common household insects, then
you may want to go with the mouse size. The mouse sizes are available and you can lay
them flat or you can fold them. Folding them is great because sometimes mice and snakes
prefer the tunneling effect. It also keeps dust and debris off of exposed glue, and it
keeps the insects hidden. If you’re going to lay them flat, you want to expose the glue
by peeling off the sticker on top. You want to place glue boards where children and pets
cannot access them. Rodents and insects tend to follow along the travel pathways of the
walls and the corners and the edges so you want to place the glue boards along the baseboards.
Now let me show you how. You want to place glue boards right up against the baseboards.
You can also place them up against corners or entry points or where you’re having high
activity or insect activity, and you just place them along the wall and you leave them
here. When you are finished, they are easily discarded for quick and easy cleanup. I hope
this video was helpful. If you need additional information please go to Do My Own Pest Control
dot com.

How To Do a Subterranean Termite Treatment

How To Do a Subterranean Termite Treatment


Hey I’m Chris the Bug Guy from Domyownpestcontrol.com,
and today we are going to show you how to get rid of termites, specifically how to get
rid of subterranean termites. Termite treatment chemicals are mainly used to treat subterranean
termites which come from underground. For that reason, to treat subterranean termites,
we have to dig a termite around the house and place the treatment in the ground. The
goal is to put a liquid barrier around your entire home, and DIY, or do it yourself, termite
treatment products are made to last a long time in the soil. So anywhere from 5 to over
10 years wow that’s a long time. The best termite products we have these days are called
non-repellent products. This means the termites do not realize the barrier is in the soil.
They walk through the product freely picking it up on their bodies and carrying it back
down underground and passing it around to the rest of the colony. It moves like a plague,
killing the queen and the entire colony over a period of time. The cost of a termite treatment
from a professional company can range from anywhere on average from $800-$1500. Most
of the cost is in the labor to perform the treatment, but at Domyownpestcontrol.com if
you are willing to do the labor yourself you can treat your home just as effectively as
the professionals for a few hundred dollars or less. Now that is a lot of money back in
your pocket. Now let’s go outside and show you how to apply the product in the trench
around your home. Step 1 is digging the trench. The trench against your house should be 6″
wide and 6″ deep. You can use a shovel or a pick axe, and the trench will be directly
against the foundation. Once you have dug the trench, it is 4 gallons per 10 feet, 10
lineal feet, along the house. So you are going to mix in the termiticide, make a line on
the bucket if you need to for 4 gallons, and once it’s mixed we’re going to evenly distribute
it over the trench. So we have a 10′ section over here. You are going to evenly distribute
those 4 gallons over the 10′, and then move on to the next section. By the time you get
back around this should have dissipated into the soil. Now once you have finished trenching
and filling the trench with the termiticide, and it’s had time to dissipate into the soil
you need to put the back fill back into the trench. Now the dirt right now is untreated.
This is the dirt we took out of the trench, but you want to make sure that you treat it
before you put it back in because you don’t want a layer of untreated soil on top of the
treated soil. If termites happen to go right near the surface, they are going to skip the
termiticide you placed in the trench. So this is a lot easier with two people. You want
to mix some termiticide in a 1 gallon pump sprayer, and then you want to have a shovel
or a rake to push the dirt back in the trench. The person with the sprayer is going to go
ahead and start just wetting the dirt down, not so much that it is muddy, but just start
wetting the dirt down, and as you are pushing it back in with the shovel or rake, the other
person is going to wet it down. Just move on down the line. Let him wet it down a little
bit. As you shovel it back in they’re just going to wet down that back fill and get it
mixed well with the termiticide. Now your house is completely protected by the professional
termiticide. I hope you found this video useful. For more information click here.

How to Get Rid of Bed Bugs – Quick Tips

How to Get Rid of Bed Bugs – Quick Tips


Okay we get a lot of phone calls asking how
do I get rid of bed bugs, and there were several steps that go into this procedure and step
one is always going to be inspection and sanitation. What we mean by that is we are going to search
the room and we’re going to get rid of anything that we don’t absolutely need to have. That
means that we’re going to get rid of extra papers that we have laying around. If we store
things under the bed we’re going to get those things out from under the bed; we’re going
to move them out of the way so that we can clear the way toward a treatment path. All
clothes should be bagged up. Drawers should be emptied. So your room should kind of look
like it did when you were first moving in. Everything should be clean and empty. Then
we are going to move on to step two, and that’s the thorough treatment. That means every crack
and crevice, every nook and cranny has to be treated with some product. Whether it’s
an aerosol, a liquid concentrate, or a dust everything must be treated. Step three, you
go back and you treat again, and you’re going to treat every two weeks until you don’t have
any more bed bugs or any evidence of bed bugs for at least thirty days. Okay, some common mistakes folks make when
they’re trying to get rid of bed bugs is just not doing a thorough job. A lot of folks want
to go in and just kind of broadcast spray all over the room and hope that just does
the job. Well bed bugs like to hide in cracks and crevices so it is very important that
every crack and crevice is treated. This means cracks and crevices around base boards, door
frames, window frames, picture frames. If you can fit a credit card in there a bed bug
can also hide there. Every crack and crevice must be treated. The second common mistake
is just not doing the repeat treatments. People want to treat once and move on. Unfortunately
the bed bug egg is protected so those repeat treatments are necessary with every product
that you use. You may be wondering if you can treat bed
bugs yourself versus hiring a professional, and the answer is of course you can. You have
to be committed to adding a little bit of your own labor into the process, but if you
are willing to do that you can certainly treat bed bugs yourself. We do recommend that you
use one of our bed bug kits versus trying to choose one single product because there
could be a resistance issue with the product that you are choosing and treating the string
of bed bugs that you have. If you choose a kit you’ll notice they come with an aerosol,
they’ll come with a dust, and may even come with a liquid concentrate. These different
products are all chosen to put together into one kit so you can avoid any kind of resistance
issue

How to do a Bed Bug Treatment

How to do a Bed Bug Treatment


Hi I’m James from Do My Own Pest Control dot com,
and I’m filming from our product warehouse to talk about how to get rid of bed bugs. At
Do My Own Pest Control dot com, we know that the thought of doing your own bedbug treatment may seem
daunting to you. This is understandable. That’s that’s why we’re going to walk you through a bedbug
treatment step-by-step, so you can learn how to implement your own successful bedbug elimination
treatment. Step 1 – Prepare the space that needs to be treated. This is probably the
hardest part for most folks, but whether you hire a pest control operator or do your own
bedbug treatment, THIS STEP CANNOT BE SKIPPED. It’s time to take a hard look around the room.
Grab a few trash bags and bag up anything you have decided you do not want to keep.
Remember, every item left in the room must be treated in some way to get rid of hidden
bedbugs so if you don’t need it or love it , TOSS IT! Be sure to seal up the bags before
carrying them out of the room to avoid transferring bedbugs to other parts of the home. Gather
any clothing or linens in the room and run them through the dryer on high for about 30
minutes. Place these items in bags or storage containers to avoid re- infestation. Make
sure all drawers, cabinets and under the bed are free of any items, to allow for a complete
and thorough treatment. We get a lot of phone calls at this point because people aren’t
sure if they have to get rid of their mattress and box spring. This is usually a personal
decision but you do not have to get rid of the mattress and box spring. You can instead
choose to encase them in bedbug proof covers. These covers zip up all the way around each
piece and any bedbugs already on the mattress or box spring will be trapped and will eventually
die. Step 2 – is using a heat treatment. This step is optional but we do strongly urge you
to consider it. By using a steamer that reaches bedbug killing temperatures (over 140 degrees Fahrenheit)
you can kill a large number of bedbugs quickly. Most insecticides are not capable of killing
bedbug eggs so using heat is a great option. All heat treatments should be done before
insecticide treatments to avoid degrading the insecticide. Steaming should be done s-l-o-w-l-y
and the steam should be aimed at cracks and crevices. -Step 3 is the actual application
of insecticides. There are no shortcuts here. Foggers or bug bombs should be avoided as
they are rarely useful for bedbug control and can actually force bedbugs deeper into
voids and make elimination take longer. We recommend using a few different products together
in your bedbug program. All of the products must be specifically labeled for bedbugs.
Most programs should include a concentrated liquid insecticide, an aerosol insecticide
and an insecticide dust. We have bedbug kits made specifically for at-home treatment available
on our website, Do My Own Pest Control dot com. Measure and mix the concentrate as recommended on
the product label and apply around baseboards, door frames, window frames, around bed frames,
and under furniture. Allow the treated area to dry before moving on to the next step.
Now that the area is dry you can use the aerosol insecticide. Take the time to use the straw
applicator on the aerosol and treat the very fine cracks and crevices ON and IN furniture
AND around the entire room. Don’t forget drawers, picture frames, bedframes, and any other crack
or crevice you can see. Once again you want to allow this part of the treatment to dry
before moving on to the next step. Last is the dust insecticide. The dust can be applied
using a hand duster to the underside of baseboards, between mattresses and box springs and behind
drawers, in dressers, under furniture, and behind light switches and electrical outlets.
Dusts, while a bit messy, are a great choice for use in places that are less accessible
because they last for several months while sprays and aerosols only last for a few days.
This means dusts can be applied to areas that are hard to access since you only have to
apply them every few months. Step 4. Treat again. Reapplications are necessary every
7-10 days until you do not see ANY evidence of bedbugs for 30 days. Evidence means live
bugs, blood spots on light colored sheets, bites or cast bedbug skins. Most treatment
programs, when performed as directed will require 3-4 retreatments. If you have more
questions, or need any bedbug products, or pest products, please visit our website, Do My Own Pest Control dot com.
Thanks!

How to Do a Termite Treatment with Termidor SC Termiticide

How to Do a Termite Treatment with Termidor SC Termiticide


Hey I’m Chris the Bug Guy from Domyownpestcontrol.com,
and today I’m going to show you how to get rid of termites using Termidor SC. Termidor
SC is considered the #1 non-repellent termiticide on the market for treating termites with the
active ingredient fipronil. Most professional companies provide Termidor termite treatments
because once you apply it, it lasts for over 10 years, and it kills termite colonies in
as little as 90 days. Termidor is a concentrate that comes in a 20 oz bottle. One bottle can
make 25 gallons of finished solution and treat 60 lineal feet. Each house usually needs 3-4
bottles. Now let’s go outside and show you how to use Termidor in the trenches around
your house. Step 1 is digging the trench. The trench against your house should be 6″
wide and 6″ deep. You can use a shovel or a pick axe, and the trench will be directly
against the foundation. Once you have dug the trench, it is 4 gallons per 10 feet, 10
lineal feet, along the house. So you are going to mix in the termiticide, make a line on
the bucket if you need to for 4 gallons, and once it’s mixed we’re going to evenly distribute
it over the trench. So we have a 10′ section over here. You are going to evenly distribute
those 4 gallons over the 10′, and then move on to the next section. By the time you get
back around this should have dissipated into the soil. Now once you have finished trenching
and filling the trench with the termiticide, and it’s had time to dissipate into the soil
you need to put the back fill back into the trench. Now the dirt right now is untreated.
This is the dirt we took out of the trench, but you want to make sure that you treat it
before you put it back in because you don’t want a layer of untreated soil on top of the
treated soil. If termites happen to go right near the surface, they are going to skip the
termiticide you placed in the trench. So this is a lot easier with two people. You want
to mix some termiticide in a 1 gallon pump sprayer, and then you want to have a shovel
or a rake to push the dirt back in the trench. The person with the sprayer is going to go
ahead and start just wetting the dirt down, not so much that it is muddy, but just start
wetting the dirt down, and as you are pushing it back in with the shovel or rake, the other
person is going to wet it down. Just move on down the line. Let him wet it down a little
bit. As you shovel it back in they’re just going to wet down that back fill and get it
mixed well with the termiticide. Now your house is completely protected by the professional
termiticide. I hope you found this video useful. For more information click here.