So you want to build a deck, Part 2 Termite Barriers

So you want to build a deck, Part 2 Termite Barriers


G’day and welcome back to Buildsum and the series of videos on building a deck and In this video. I just want to look at the termite Barrier and the requirements for when you need to have a termite barrier So basically every house its constructed has a termite barrier and what we don’t want to do when we build our deck is actually breach or Give the termites a chance to go around that barrier, so Not only will it be detrimental to your deck. It could be detrimental to the entire house. So The best way to know where that to my barrier is in your house is if you look at the outside wall of your building You will find You just turn around you’ll have a row of These what they call perps that have no mortar in them okay, there there is a weep hole to let the moisture come out of the brick wall, but Generally in that row of mortar behind or just below That row is where your ant cap or your termite Termite barrier is placed. So if you can put your deck below That termite barrier then you’re pretty much set. You don’t have to worry too much about Your termite resistance. All you have to do is make your deck out of a termite resistant material You don’t have to worry about putting in an extra barrier However, that’s not going to be the case. Unless you have a fairly well built up house I mean a lot of cases nowadays you’re going to end up with the situation like this Where that barrier is practically right at the bottom of your wall Right down here Okay, and that would in that case you’re going to end up with what they call a slab or a deck on ground situation where you know we can’t More-or-less can’t put in a termite barrier. We’re just going to have to build it out of termite resistant materials However, if you have a deck that is built up And you’re gonna put it up on Piers Then we need to maintain the barrier that Exists in the house. So the way we do that is There’s basically three different P types that you’re going to come across so more traditionally is the brick pier So one or two bricks, but two bricks or 230mm by 230mm Becoming more popular nowadays are these steel piers and you can buy these pre-made caps and Then you can have the timber post. Now. These all have a built in termite barrier. So The barrier on top of the brick pier is an ant cap. It’s a pressed metal cap that protrudes out on a bit of an angle all the way around Okay, that stops the termites because even if they work their way up in between the brickwork when they hit this metal cap They can’t eat through the metal so they actually have to come around build little tunnels and go around outside the cap Remembering that no to my barrier is a 100% effective at stopping Termites all that does is divert them and make them come out where we can see them. So that’s all the cap does The steel pier again, it has a little bit of an ant cap on top So if the termites were to get inside and work their way up the center of the pier though it again, they hit the cap They’d have to come out and around the cap to get into our timber and all timber sits on top just here So that little cap there froms our termite barrier in that case and with our timber post we have to have a minimum of 75mm Clear from the ground level Whether that be our pad or we just had the ground covering that you have to have 75mm from the bottom side of this Stirrup or post you to the ground to give us a termite barrier That way we would see the termites if they decided to climb up there and we’d be able to do something about it okay, so there’s the three probably most common peir types that you’re gonna get and how they achieve Its termite barrier. So that’s as I said, it’s pretty standard if your deck is off the ground one You’re going to build it out of termite resistant material and two. You’re probably going to have a Termite barrier just built in because it’s pretty standard practice nowadays Okay, so there the termite requirements and how we achieve a termite barrier on our decks G’day, I’m back Just let you know that if you like this video you can subscribe to my youtube channel, or you can follow me on Facebook So you don’t miss out on more great videos

How to Deal with Bed Bugs

How to Deal with Bed Bugs


Oh hi. Are you finding your clothes are full of bed
bugs? Just take some of your neighbours clothes
from the laundry. Don’t settle for bad advice. Find the place that’s right for you at Rentitornot.com

How to Install the WeatherTech Bug Shield

How to Install the WeatherTech Bug Shield


Hey guys, John here with RealTruck.com. I’m
gonna show you how to install the WeatherTech Bug Shield onto this 2015 Chevy Silverado. Okay guys, you can see we’ve got our WeatherTech
Bug Shield out of the box. It comes with everything you need to get it installed onto your truck.
Comes with, of course, the bug shield, which is molded in this nice, sleek, stylish design.
Gives a nice OE kind of fit to your truck, and really enhances your truck’s style. It’s
also made out of an aerospace composition, which means it’s gonna be very durable. You’re
not gonna have to worry about this thing getting busted up going down the road, rocks, bugs
hitting it. It’s designed to take that so they fly away from your truck and not at your
truck. So, you have your bug shield, you have your
alcohol pads, your paint protectors, your clips, and also your bump stops and screws
to attach your clips. So there’s only one thing left to do at this point guys, and that’s
get this bug shield on that truck. One of the really nice things about this bug
shield is that it’s a nice, no drill install type of bug shield. The only thing you need
to actually install is a Phillips screwdriver and a few minutes of your time. So what we’re
gonna do is we’re gonna go ahead and attach our clips to the bug shield. And one of the
other really neat things I should point out before we attach these clips to this bug shield
is the fact that you can either use these clips and attach the bug shield, or you also
have a tape on. So if you don’t have any way to attach the clips, you can also tape these
on as well. So, let’s put the clips onto the shield, and get that ready to go. Okay, what we’re gonna do is to prep the truck.
We’re gonna take our alcohol prep pad and we’re just gonna wipe down the whole front
of the truck, And then we’re gonna take our bug shield and we’re actually gonna just set
it up here on the hood to get an idea of where it’s going to be going. And so that way we
can mark for our paint protectors. And we’re just gonna use a grease pencil of sorts and
that allows for marking. And then this marking actually can rub right off so that this doesn’t
mark up the truck or stay on there or anything. So once we have that done, then what we’re
gonna do is we’re gonna grab our paint protectors, and we’re gonna put one on each side of the
truck. So this is just a clear adhesive type of thing that you’re just put on here that
protects the paint so that way when you put the clip on here it doesn’t scratch it. And
since it’s clear, it doesn’t stand out on your truck or anything like that, so that’s
good. And then, the next thing we’re gonna do is
we’re going to go ahead and peel back a couple inches of our tape. Okay, then we’re going
to go ahead and take our bug shield and install it onto our truck. What we’re gonna do then
is just set it up on here where it’s gonna go. Push the clips on. And if you did it right,
you should be on your paint protector strip. And once that’s done you can bring this down. Okay, once you have your bug shield in place,
then what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna go ahead and get a hold of that tape that we
peeled loose, make sure this is set we’re we want it to set and pull that tape off.
Just kind of give it a little push down to attach it to the hood securely. Do the one
on the other side the same way, same thing. And just kind of rub across it to make sure
that it’s all in place nicely. Then what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna take our bump stops.
And what these bump stops are for, is obviously they’re to stop bump, but the bump we’re talking
about in particular is on our bug shield. So that way this piece here doesn’t slap the
hood and the fender and mess up your paint. So we’re just gonna put these right in behind
there, and then this will hit those and stop it from slamming against your hood. And we’ll
do the same thing for the other side. Okay guys, there you have it. That’s how quick,
simple, and easy it is to install this WeatherTech Bug Shield onto your truck. So, remember until
next time, happy motoring.

Stuff We Love: Dynatrap Insect and Mosquito Traps

Stuff We Love: Dynatrap Insect and Mosquito Traps


– Welcome back. Josh, what have we got here? It looks like a big pot
heater or something. – This is unbelievable. What do you think this is? – Well, it’s got a screen
and there’s like dead bugs or something in the bottom. It’s got, I don’t know–
– Yes, yes. This is the Dynatrap XL. – Mosquito catcher thing, right? – Yeah, it’s an insect bug catcher. – Oh, nice. – So this is the Dynatrap
DT 2000 XL Insect Trap. – With the zapper? The zapper?
– Yep. So okay, Mark and I, we
live by a bunch of swamps and there’s a lot of mosquitoes out there. – Yes, there are. – And I’ve got a neighbor here
and I’ve got a neighbor here that have the zappers . – Yep.
– And all night, I’m just like this when I’m walking in. That’s what’s super cool about this thing. – So no on this one? – No, this isn’t. So this has got three-way protection. How it works is it uses
ultraviolet lights. So those turn on so bugs love lights. – So they go to the light. Yep, that makes sense.
– Yes. They love heat. – Sure, so there’s heat.
– It’s a source so this is heat and the source. So when these lights
shine, there’s actually titanium dioxide coating inside
of here that creates CO2, it puts out CO2.
– So like our breath? – Yes, and that’s what mosquitoes and bugs can pick up on.
– That’s what attracts them? So then how does it, does
it kill them or catch them or what does it do? – So what this does is
it’s a fan running in here and pretty much when you buy this thing, you should hook it up, plug it in, and let it rip all day long
because what it’s doing is it’s taking that whole
area to take down the bugs and them– – Mosquitoes.
– Thank you. – This is a mosquito catcher, right? – Yes, no, not just mosquitoes. – It does catch other bugs? – So this does biting
flies, Asian beetles, wasps, hornets, yellow
jackets, moths, gypsum wasps, stinkbugs, and more.
– A lot of bugs. It does a lot of bugs.
– You want more? – No, I do not. It does a lot of different bugs. – I knew you’d ask that question. – And does it trap them in
there or does it kill them before it traps them?
– Yes, so the fan goes and they come in here because
they smell the carbon dioxide, the CO2, and then what they do is the fan sucks them in here, it puts them in here
and then they dehydrate and they die off in here. – I don’t care how they
die as long as they die. – Yeah, and I plugged this
thing in for 10 minutes, the first 10 minutes and
I’m like, “Oh, I want to see “if it’s working.” The bottom was almost covered with them. And you know mosquitoes, they can carry over seven diseases.
– Diseases. – No, they can. It’s not the stuff that’s out there so that’s what helps with this. – Other ones you’ve got
to replace like juice or some smelly stuff, is there
maintenance on this thing? – No, that’s it.
– Do you have to replace anything?
– The light bulbs. I mean, if the light bulbs burn out that’s all you’re gonna have to replace. – So these little fluorescent ones? That’s it.
– Yep. And here’s the light so as it runs, you just flip the switch on. – So as the fan goes?
– The fan turns on. Do you hear ?
– Right. – No, it’s just a quiet fan running. – And Dynatrap, how much? Is there different models?
– Dynatrap, so this is their largest model. It will do an acre, right? So you’d need a couple
of these, like 15 of them or 20 of them at minimum. And this is $199. Now they start with the outdoor stuff at around $94 you can get them. I tested this through
the summer and I wanted to make sure this thing worked because when I saw it at first, I was like. – Yeah, there’s a lot of them out there. I bought one that was
kind of a propane deal and it was junk. Absolute junk.
– Yeah. Safe, silent, and simple.
– Very nice. – With the flick of a switch. Yeah, this is cool. – Alright, we’ll see you next time. – My kids running around. – Yeah, mosquitoes are the worst. – When they get bit, that thing swells up like a golf ball.
– Yeah.

Collecting Insects in Rotting Logs

Collecting Insects in Rotting Logs


One of my favorite places to look for insects is inside rotting logs. You might think there’s not a lot there, but with some tips and techniques and the right tools you’ll be able to find a wide variety of these special treasures. So i’m going to go ahead and start chopping into this log I know this is a good log because if you listen to that sound, i’ll get closer with my microphone. You can hear its kind of hollow and you can tell it’s not hard. What you do not want is hardwood like this over here. So this wood you can hear that’s extra hard. That extra hard wood is not going to have hardly any insects in it. What you want is this really hollow stuff and inside of here we’re going to find all sorts of larvae and also different types of insects. So what we actually have for a tool here today is a hammer, and this is even just a small hammer. So you could get just about any hammer and use that to be able to accomplish this task. If you want some nicer tools you could use like a wonderbar is what i’ve heard them called or like a crows foot or even use a crowbar, a big one if you wanted to get some really good leverage, but in reality i feel like you don’t even need that good of tools you just have to find the right type of wood and have lots of patience to be able to find insects. So i’m gonna go ahead and start chopping into here and let’s see if we can find anything interesting and we’ll see what we can find. I like to… So what i like to do here is I like to get a nice good hit in and then I like to peel it back in a way and see what I can find. So if you look right here we actually have stumbled across one of the most common wood dwelling insects that you’re ever going to find. This here is a termite soldier. You can tell this is a soldier because it has those extra big jaws and it is a little bit different from the others. So this is what a worker looks like right here. Termites are commonly found in moist wood. They’re an essential part of the environment because they actually help break down the rotting logs, and an interesting thing about them is that they’re able to feed on the wood because of the help of bacteria that are inside their stomachs, and these bacteria allow them to break down cellulose which is the main component of wood. If you do plan on adding termites to your collection make sure and collect either soldiers or alates which are the ones with the wings. Identifying termite workers is very difficult and professionals suggest collecting the other castes if you’re planning on adding them to your collection. You’re going to have to put them in alcohol and you’ll want to watch this video that just popped up on the screen so that you can find out how to properly preserve them. Termites are mostly blind and use chemicals primarily to communicate with one another, and also when you’re ripping off the wood look at both sides. On this side of the pieces there is a spider. You can also find scorpions too which I find quite often in rotting logs so make sure to be really careful.Today I didn’t have any on, but I typically will use gloves when I’m digging around in logs just in case I run across a scorpion or some spiders or something that could be venomous. Now if you’re in a rotting log and you run into ants like i did just now then it’s best to just pick another area of the log to work on. Ants are notorious predators and they’re usually going to kill off most other insects in whatever area they are in. They could also sting you or bite you so you want to be careful as well, and this will be the last shot of the termites I promise I’m gonna show you because there’s just so many of them and if you go chopping into rotting logs and you’re in the right areas you’re going to just be finding these things all over the place. When you’re out collecting you aren’t just going to find insects you can find all sorts of other organisms to like this mysterious slime mold which can actually move very slowly … and look here hope we found a cockroach and cockroaches like these live in wood too. The nice thing about working with wood is that insects that live here usually don’t fly so they don’t get away as often. The only problem is that they will usually go deeper into the wood so you have to keep after them and be quick. I also just want to mention that most roaches like these species are harmless to humans and actually helps out in the environment by recycling nutrients by feeding on rotting plants or animal material. I’m sure everyone who has ever picked up a rock and looked under it has seen what i like to call a rollie pollie and these are actually not insects they’re crustaceans so we’re not going to worry about them for our collection and i’m just going to put him back. Sometimes when you’re chopping into a log you might damage an insect just by chance. I have found with my experience that this rarely happens unless of course you are a termite and there are 5000 of you clustered together in a small area like here. So I’ve moved on to another log. In this log I found a funny-looking caterpillar and some caterpillars like this deadwoodborer moth caterpillar actually feed in wood, but these guys are actually feeding on fungi that is growing in the rotting wood so they’re not actually feeding on the wood like the termites are. Later on i came across this strange-looking larvae which is actually a young bess beetle and I’m really excited about this because bess beatles are just awesome. They’re the best, but they’re actually called best beatles. B-E-S-S. Anyways so there you go. I kept looking around and digging through the log nearby to see if i could find an adult. I’m going to keep digging because i really want to find an adult they’re pretty cool. So we just got an adult bess beetle too which are awesome for a collection or they can be really fun pets to raise. This one I’m going to raise in the lab to share with fellow insect enthusiastic and insect hunters at schools. So i’ll be taking this guy around with me for a while.So as you can see in less than an hour we found a lot of cool things so while out collecting in the logs you can find a lot of stuff. To finish off this episode I’m going to show you some other things that I have found while out collecting to give you an idea of what types of things you could find. One insect you might commonly find are Zopherid beetles which are also called ironclad beetles and these types of beetles are said to have some of the toughest exoskeletons of all insects, and I personally just think they look really neet. They’re kind of like tanks. I’ve also ran into mice before too. These guys I have to admit were pretty cute. Where there are insects they’re bound to be animals that feed on them. This lizzard was found in a huge rotting tree trunk. Even though our encounter was brief it was quite enjoyable. Last of all i had to show you my rotting log insect diamond that i found last year. This is a scarab beetle larvae perhaps of a Goliath beetle or something similar the day I found this thing I honestly had to stop and breathe for a moment because I was so shocked to find it I couldn’t believe that here in texas i could find a larva so big. Wow! This thing was huge and it was bigger than my thumb and I have pretty big thumbs my wife will testify to that. It took me quite a while to get used to holding this guy because I was so afraid of those big jaws because this thing is just a huge insect larva. These things actually feed on rotting logs too. As you can see from their feces. It goes to prove that even in rotting logs you can find exciting and amazing insect treasures just like this one! Thanks for coming along the journey with us. Here are some recommended videos for fellow insect hunters like you please comment and ask questions below and subscribe to stay tuned for all things insects!

How To Do a Subterranean Termite Treatment

How To Do a Subterranean Termite Treatment


Hey I’m Chris the Bug Guy from Domyownpestcontrol.com,
and today we are going to show you how to get rid of termites, specifically how to get
rid of subterranean termites. Termite treatment chemicals are mainly used to treat subterranean
termites which come from underground. For that reason, to treat subterranean termites,
we have to dig a termite around the house and place the treatment in the ground. The
goal is to put a liquid barrier around your entire home, and DIY, or do it yourself, termite
treatment products are made to last a long time in the soil. So anywhere from 5 to over
10 years wow that’s a long time. The best termite products we have these days are called
non-repellent products. This means the termites do not realize the barrier is in the soil.
They walk through the product freely picking it up on their bodies and carrying it back
down underground and passing it around to the rest of the colony. It moves like a plague,
killing the queen and the entire colony over a period of time. The cost of a termite treatment
from a professional company can range from anywhere on average from $800-$1500. Most
of the cost is in the labor to perform the treatment, but at Domyownpestcontrol.com if
you are willing to do the labor yourself you can treat your home just as effectively as
the professionals for a few hundred dollars or less. Now that is a lot of money back in
your pocket. Now let’s go outside and show you how to apply the product in the trench
around your home. Step 1 is digging the trench. The trench against your house should be 6″
wide and 6″ deep. You can use a shovel or a pick axe, and the trench will be directly
against the foundation. Once you have dug the trench, it is 4 gallons per 10 feet, 10
lineal feet, along the house. So you are going to mix in the termiticide, make a line on
the bucket if you need to for 4 gallons, and once it’s mixed we’re going to evenly distribute
it over the trench. So we have a 10′ section over here. You are going to evenly distribute
those 4 gallons over the 10′, and then move on to the next section. By the time you get
back around this should have dissipated into the soil. Now once you have finished trenching
and filling the trench with the termiticide, and it’s had time to dissipate into the soil
you need to put the back fill back into the trench. Now the dirt right now is untreated.
This is the dirt we took out of the trench, but you want to make sure that you treat it
before you put it back in because you don’t want a layer of untreated soil on top of the
treated soil. If termites happen to go right near the surface, they are going to skip the
termiticide you placed in the trench. So this is a lot easier with two people. You want
to mix some termiticide in a 1 gallon pump sprayer, and then you want to have a shovel
or a rake to push the dirt back in the trench. The person with the sprayer is going to go
ahead and start just wetting the dirt down, not so much that it is muddy, but just start
wetting the dirt down, and as you are pushing it back in with the shovel or rake, the other
person is going to wet it down. Just move on down the line. Let him wet it down a little
bit. As you shovel it back in they’re just going to wet down that back fill and get it
mixed well with the termiticide. Now your house is completely protected by the professional
termiticide. I hope you found this video useful. For more information click here.

Rescreening a Patio Door Insect Screen | Andersen Windows

Rescreening a Patio Door Insect Screen | Andersen Windows


this video will show you how to rescreen an Andersen Patio Door insect screen you need safety glasses utility knife hand saw and a tape measure as well as a
resscreening kit which include the Screen cloth a would strip
a large spline and small spline and a hand roller from Andersen dealers at parts dot Andersen Windows dot com before you begin find the service guide that came with your rescreening kit. Be sure to read
it complete including all the cautions and one you can also download the
Service Guide at Andersen windows first remove the handle set in order to lay the insect screen flat on the work area. remove the spline which is the black strip which is the black strip holding the place from the spine channel by inserting a utility knife at one end of the spline and
gently pulling up then with the screen cloth in the insect screen frame and dispose of properly turn the insect screen panel so the interior side is up and measure the width of the panel’s insect screen opening and cut the 1/2 by 1 and 1/2 inch wood strip The length will depend on the width of your door would strip must be cut to width and
placed in the center of the insect frame to prevent the frame from bowing inward next turn the insect screen panel over and lay the cloth so it overlaps evenly on all sides Roll the cloth into the wine channel wine channel using the handle shop it may help to clamp the insect screen panel to a table two sizes of splines are provided with the kit a smaller diameter in a larger diameter test it and use the one that fits tightly
into the spline channel if you use a large one make sure that
the smooth side is up start the spline in a corner and proceed around the insect screen panel making sure that the cloth is paralel to the spline channel and does not pucker or bow If puckers or bulges occur, remove the spline just past that point carefully pull out any puckers or bulges reinstall the spline. Remove the wood strip and trim the spline so thee ends meet at the corners carefully trim the excess cloth with a sharp utility knife on the outside edge of the spline lastly reinstall the insect screen congratulations you have successfully
rescreened your Anderson Patio Door insect screen if you need parts for your Andersen
windows or doors just go to our online parts store at
parts dot Anderson windows dot com in if you have questions about care, maintenance or repair call our
Customer Care Center 888-888-7020 or visit the Help Center the Service
section of our website at help dot Andersen windows dot com Anderson customer care is what we care about most

How To Remove Dead Bugs From A Car – Chemical Guys Bug And Tar Heavy Duty Car Wash Shampoo

How To Remove Dead Bugs From A Car – Chemical Guys Bug And Tar Heavy Duty Car Wash Shampoo


Welcome to Detail Garage. So today we have this Audi A4. This car has a lot of bugs all over it. This car drove over about 800 miles or so. So it has a lot of bugs that have been built up. Not only that, the bugs have sat on this car for a few days so the bugs are starting to etch on. They are starting to really work themselves into the paint. So today we are going to remove them using Bug & Tar. So Bug & Tar is a solvent which helps you remove those bugs. So in order for us to remove these bugs, we’re gonna start prepping using our professional spray bottle and our Bug & Tar. So I’m gonna add about one ounce. That’s about an ounce. So now bugs when they stick onto a vehicle, they stick on there pretty good and it’s pretty hard to get them out. In order for me to save time, I’ll be using the two bucket method and a spray bottle. So while I spray down the front end of the vehicle, it’s gonna help loosen up those bugs. So let’s start. So while that’s settling in, it’s gonna help loosen a lot of the bugs that have been etched onto the paint. So while that sits, let’s start off with our two buckets. So I got our little dirt traps here. We are going to use our two bucket method to help remove a lot of those bugs and to make sure we don’t scratch the surface. That’s one of the biggest problems when it comes to taking off bugs form the vehicle. We’ll have those settling in. I have the Ultimate Chenille Wash Mitt. It has a chenille side on one side and it has a nice bug sponge on the other side. So now… We are going to put two ounces of Bug & Tar into the bucket. So now… While that sits in there, this is loosening up, what i’m going to do, is get our Chenille Wash Mitt dip it into the solution to help mix it up a little bit. This is going to be our soap bucket. Make sure I get it in there. Alright, this is the tricky part. So since there is a lot of bugs on here right now, I’m not going to start scrubbing right away because I am going to scratch it if I start scrubbing and start agitating. So I gently want to go over the surface and start removing a lot of the loose bugs. It’s very very important to you go in straight lines right here. And work in small sections. So as you can see here, these are all the bugs that have been coming off. As you can see they came off very very easily. And these are bugs that have been sitting on there for a while. So i’m going into my rinse bucket, dip it in, use the Dirt Trap to loosen up a lot of those bugs. And…this is pretty gross because there is a lot of bugs coming up on the water. Normally I would rinse this out out of the bucket but since we are indoors I don’t want to make a mess. And the Dirt Trap does a very very good job not allowing any picking up any kind of contaminates or bringing them back up to the surface. So I’ll go back into my soap bucket in here and repeat the same process throughout the whole front end. So again, ring it out. See there is not bugs here anymore. Go back into my soap bucket. I’m trying not to get too much water onto the floor. That’s more clean up after me. Snakelike pattern. yeah, most of these bugs are coming off pretty easy. There is some areas where I have to get a little bit more aggressive and use the bug net side which is perfect to demonstrate how well this cleans. So again, lots of bugs. Dip it into my rinse bucket which is gross… Alright so now I’m going to flip this over. Flip this band over which is awesome because now I can start getting aggressive. So again, back into my soap bucket. And now we are going to start scrubbing. Now when you scrub, again, you are doing it in straight lines. Applying a minimal amount of pressure. Because Bug & Tar does the job by itself. As you can see it trapped all the bugs within these holes right here. Perfect. So what you do now is you repeat this process until you get all the bugs out. If you still have some bugs that are etched on the surface itself, you may want to apply a little of pressure, but again, you want to be rubbing in straight lines that way you don’t scratch the surface. So now that the Bug & Tar has been used to remove a lot of the bugs and tar off this vehicle Take this wash sponge and leave it back in there for now. And now it’s time for us to neutralize the solution. So to neutralize it, you can hose it down with water. Obviously we don’t have access to water in here. We want to make less of a mess than we already have. So we are going to be using a quick detail spray. Grab any one of your favorite quick detail sprays to help neutralize this. That way you get a nice slick finish and when you dry it off, it’s also going to dry off nice, slick, very shiny. just the way we like it. Let that settle in for a little bit. Grab your microfiber towel and start wiping. Once you get enough on one side, flip over and pick up any kind of bugs or anything that may have been hiding in between these grills That I couldn’t necessarily get my wash sponge into. At the same time we are kinda drying it off. There you go. The bumper is nice and dry. It’s bug free which is a great thing. And again, if the bugs don’t come off using the wash sponge you can apply a little bit more pressure. Or if the bugs have been sitting on here for more than 5 days, maybe over a week, they are going to embed themselves on there pretty hard so you might want to try a claybar method to help remove those as well. So for the purposes of this video, this vehicle is bug free. Bug & Tar did it’s job and it did a great job. It’s very easy to use and very effective.