Hogyan nevelj hangyakolóniát? – 1. rész


AntsHungary presents: How to raise an ant colony? the ant colony’s raising starts with a test tube. fill the clean test tube with some water theen put a piece of wool in it not too tight and not too loosely pull down the wool with a hooked wire expressly. only until the water level not along! than put the ant queen in this test tube. this test tube will guarantee the humidity for a long time the end of the test tube also close with a piece of wool it let through the air so gives the optimal breeze for the hatching test tube. the queen feels safe herself in this tight, closed test tube and the humidity imitate the underground conditions most of the claustral ant species don’t claim feeding at the first time, but we recommend to feeding every species from the beginning, to helps their successfull colony founding. most species needs to feed with honey and insects only some harvester species deflect from it. put a small honey at the side of the test tube with a hooked wire put only a few from it, less than a drop. we should think how big our ant, and how big her stomach possibly if we think this, we won’t make that mistake to give too much honey them and they stick in it. recommend to cut half the insects for the ants they will easily access to the soft parts in it. then put the test tube in warm, dark, calm and vibration-free place when the queen can laying eggs leisurely. can guarantee the darkness if package the test tube in a piece of cellophane. some days later the queen is laying down her first eggs. this time we don’t have much work, just to take care for the feeding and keep the test tube clean. give them half-cutted insect pieces 2 times a week and 1 or 2 days later clear off them before they deteriorate after a few weeks the eggs develop.. …first for larva, ..after for puppae. larvae eats protein already, so this time important the feeding regularly. first workers will hatch from the puppae. with the small and mediom sized ants it needs 4-6 weeks from egg to worker but with some big sized spices this time could be 2 and half months even. If the test tube became dirty during the hatching we have to move the queen and the brood into a new, clean test tube. it’s much easier now, than when have workers if the surface of the cotton covered by mould, or the water discoloured, it could be a dangerous habitat for the ants, so have to move them for a new tube. we need the following tools for the transfer: first top up the new test tube with the earlier mentioned method, then put the queen into the new one. finally have to move the brood carefully. need a small drop of water. watering a bit the hair of the brush, so the brood will stick to it and we can move them carefully to the new test tube. the brush has soft hairs wich don’t damage the brood. try to move all of the eggs. don’t have to put them for the same place, the queen will put them to a heap. 🐜 Subscribe! 🐜 – and check the next episode. 🙂

Honey bees – Natural History 2

Honey bees – Natural History 2


Bees are called social insects because they
live and work together as a community. Thousands of female bees, called worker bees, live together
in a hive with a queen bee. The queen bee is marked with a red dot so we can see her
better. The worker bees are all females, but they
almost never lay eggs. Worker bees do almost all the chores in the hive. They gather pollen
or nectar, guard the entrance, clean the hive, build the comb, make honey, tend the queen,
and feed the larvae. They even fan the hive with their wings to keep it cool on a hot
summer day. The queen bee is larger than the worker bees.
She lays about a thousand eggs each day! Watch the worker bees attending to the queen bee
and feeding her. The worker bees touch and lick her as they tend to her needs. They get
a substance from the queen that they carry around the hive, and when they touch and lick
other bees, this substance, or pheromone, tells them that the queen bee is alive and
well. Then all the worker bees keep doing their jobs. The queen bee walks from cell
to cell to lay a small white egg in each one. She lays all the eggs.
Inside the cells, the eggs hatch into larvae or grubs. The workers take care of all the
larvae, which include several queen bee larvae. The worker bees take pollen mixed with honey
to feed them. The larvae eat a lot, but the pupae do not
eat at all. When the larvae are ready to turn into pupae, the worker bees close off the
cell with wax. Inside, the grubs pupate and metamorphose into bees in about 12 days. Pupae
use the stored up fat and tissue from the larval stage to metamorphose into adult bees.
Honey bees undergo a complete metamorphosis. After the pupae have changed into adult bees,
they chew their way out of the cells and start working! Watch the young bee crawl out of
the cell! The cells are also used for storing nectar
and pollen. Honey is made inside cells. Adult bees also rest in them.
If a female larva is fed special food called royal jelly, she becomes a queen bee. If not,
she becomes a worker bee. A new queen goes on her nuptial, or wedding
flight, a flight to mate with drones. Only a few drones, or male bees, live in each
hive. Thousands of drones from many bee colonies gather in one place. Queens fly there, too.
The drones mate with a queen bee. After the young queen has mated, she heads to the colony
where she was raised and becomes the new queen. The old queen and approximately half of the
workers leave the hive as a swarm, to find a new nest site.

Élet 5 centiméteren! – Temnothoraxok gondozása FormiKIT micro hangyafarmban


If you don’t know Temnothorax species, you should know they are tiny species and found small colonies. They can live lifelong in the FormiKIT micro formicarium. Here can see the queen. The moister spoinge is a bit dirty in this formicarium, i should replace it to a new one. But how can we do this, to avoid their escape? Check this, here is the first trick! We will replace the sponge and the colony will stay in the formicarium during. The FormiKIT Micro include 6 screws we will get out 5 from these. We will leave only the roofing’s screw. The formicarium won’t come aparts, but we can slide carefully the nest’s top layer. Take out the old sponge, and put the new one into. Then slip back the top layer. We have some deserters of course. Don’t afraid, just put them back with a brush. Finally close and assemble the formicarium. You can see the new sponge is much cleaner! This sponge is really thin, as can see before. This is important. Don’t forget: it can store only a few water, so really important to moister it regularly, at least 1-2 times a week. Temnothorax species don’t need high humidity, but they also drink sometimes. Put a piece of tape on the moister hole, to slow down the evaporating. I raised up them a bit. They are trying to hide in the pole and guarding the queen. We can clean up the dirty arena with a humid cotton wool. I show you a mature colony too. The winged male ants this year appeared in this colony. You can see they have massive brood. This is how looks a mature colony in the Temnothorax species. But they are still no more than 5 centimeter. I show you the 2nd trick with this colony. Need a small piece of wool, and a hooked tweezer. When all ants in the nest-part, close the entrance with the wool. Take out the 4 screws from the arena. If you take apart the arena like this you can wiping and cleaning it, just how you want. Don’t have to worry about the escapes during the cleaning. The two screws still keeps in gross the nest-part. If we finished with the cleaning assemble it again and give food for the ants. You can see a new-born worker in this scene. They has this bright color after born, during the first day. She looks just like a “ghost-ant” 🙂 This colony get honey, … …cockroach pieces, … …and shattered nut pieces for food. It seems they like the cockroach mostly now. You can put the formicarium in different ways, but don’t forget: the water in the sponge will always goes downwards. Thanks for watching! You can find the own-designed FormiKIT Micro formicarium on our ant-site! If you enjoyed, don’t forget to subscribe to the AntsHungary’s YouTube channel! 🙂

What Happens If All The Bees Die?

What Happens If All The Bees Die?


Bees play a crucial role on Earth – some even
claim that if they go extinct, humanity would be next. So with the dramatic decline in bee
population, should we be worried? What happens if the bees all die? Simply put, if a plant produces a flower,
you can bet that bees help them reproduce. This long-standing, working relationship evolved
with flowers being bright and fragrant to attract bees, and the bees fuzzy, velcro-like
bodies helping them to efficiently transfer pollen from the male part of the plant to
the female part. This seemingly simple mechanism is directly responsible for the production
of 70% of fruits, vegetables, seeds and nuts that we consume on a daily basis. 70%! Which
translates into almost $200 billion in global agriculture revenue. This huge responsibility
is accomplished by droves of commercial bees, reared by professional beekeepers for the
sole purpose of being transported to farms and orchards to pollinate crops. But since 2006, these hardworking, busy bees
have been mysteriously disappearing. This Colony Collapse Disorder has seen an average
of 1/3rd of commercial bees abandoning their hives. In fact, some beekeepers have even
reported that 90% of their bees have simply buzzed off. In some colonies, mites, viruses and parasites
have been to blame, but many are now looking at a class of insecticides called neonicotinoids.
This neurotoxin is used to kill off crop eating insects and pests, but also affects the central
nervous systems of bees when they consume contaminated nectar. And since nectar is brought
back to hives, the entire colony can be affected, leading to mass confusion and disorientation.
On top of this, other factors such as extremely cold and long winters, a lack of genetic diversity
in commercial bees, and less variable nectar in the fields may be at fault. If the trend continues, entire food chains
and webs may be at risk. Take almond plants for example; the hulls of these nuts are used
as feed for farm cattle and chickens. Fewer bees means fewer almonds, which could mean
declining livestock, and ultimately less milk, cheese, eggs and meat production. Not to mention
almonds are used in cereal, baking and many other food products. Beef and dairy cows would
also be harshly affected by the vanishing alfalfa fields which are used to harvest hay
for cattle. Looking for a morning buzz? Considering bees pollinate Coffea arabica, whose seeds
we grind for coffee, you can count that out. Without bees, our diet would consist of mostly
corn, wheat and rice, as they are wind pollinated plants. Like your clothes? Not only is cotton the
biggest cash crop in the US, it also makes up about 35% of the world’s fiber use. So
you can forget those blue jeans, towels, mattresses and high quality paper products. Simply put, we’d be living in a completely
different world without bees, not to mention suffering a substantial economic strain from
their disappearance. So while we may not necessarily go ‘extinct’ should the downward trend
persist, a world without the buzz of bees would definitely…sting! Want a free copy of our NEW book? Now you
can get one from Audible.com/asap which is the leading provider of audiobooks with over
150,000 dowloadable titles across all types of literature. Our book just came out this
past week and it covers a ton of questions that have never been answered in our videos
which we’re so excited to share with you! You can download it, or another audio book
of your choice, for free, at audible.com/asap. Special thanks to Audible for making these
videos possible, and to YOU for continually supporting our show and science education.
It means a lot! And if you missed our Live SCIENCE stream
last week where we performed the Periodic Table Song live and answered your burning
questions, be sure to check it out here, or by using the link in the description. And subscribe for more weekly science videos.

Watch This Bee Build Her Bee-jeweled Nest | Deep Look

Watch This Bee Build Her Bee-jeweled Nest | Deep Look


What’s this bee up to digging around in
the mud? This blue orchard bee is a mason, a builder. Her material is – you guessed it – mud. And she works alone. In fact, unlike those honeybee hives you might
think of, most of the 4,000 types of bees in North America are solitary. See how she scrapes the wet earth? She collects it with two huge pincer-like
tools on her face called mandibles. She’s gathering mud to make her nest. The nest is long and thin. In nature, she goes into places like hollow
twigs. At the University of California, Davis, she
uses a six-inch-long paper straw provided by researchers. In this nest without a straw you can see how
she builds a wall of mud. Then she gathers food from spring flowers,
but not only to feed herself. See the pretty purple pollen on the anther
of this flower? She grabs the anthers with her legs and rubs
the pollen onto hairs on her abdomen called scopa. And while she’s at it, she sips a little
nectar from the blooms. When she climbs back into her nest, she turns
the pollen and nectar into a sweet morsel next to the mud wall. On this purple ball she lays a single egg. She repeats this several times in her narrow
nest. Egg. Wall. Egg. Wall. When she’s done, she seals it all up with
more mud. A cross-section of the nest shows her incredible
craftsmanship: it looks like a piece of jewelry. Soon, the eggs hatch. The hungry larvae feed on their pollen provision,
the purple lunchbox their mom packed for them. Still in the safety of the nest, the well-fed
larva spins a cocoon. The following spring, the adult bee chews
its way out. Just like their name says, blue orchard bees
love orchards: fields of almonds and sweet cherries. And they’re really good at pollinating them:
A few hundred females can pollinate as many almonds as thousands of honeybees. And their tube nest means they’re portable. That makes it easy to distribute them to farmers. So why haven’t they taken over the fields? Well, they reproduce slowly. They only have 15 babies a year. A queen honeybee has 500 … a day. So there just aren’t that many blue orchard
bees around. But some farmers are enlisting them anyway,
hoping they can provide some relief to their struggling honeybee cousins. If you look carefully, you might just spot
a blue orchard bee foraging out in a field, helping keep fruits and nuts on our plates. Hi. It’s Laura. A special shoutout and thank you to Bill Cass
and James Tarraga, whose generous monthly support on Patreon helps make Deep Look possible. If you’d like to get in on the buzz, come
join our Deep Look community on Patreon. Click the button or link below to unlock rewards
like exclusive digital downloads, chats with the producers and cool swag. One more thing. Our partner, PBS Digital Studios, wants to
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Two Giant Killer Hornet Colonies Fight to the Death


[MUSIC PLAYING] NARRATOR: The Samurai scouts
bring news that there’s an army on its way. [BUZZING] They rally the troops. But it’s too late. The Bamboo Battalion is on them. The Rock Samurais are ambushed
at their own entrance. When times are tough,
giant killer hornets turn on their kind. It’s like on like,
giant on giant. Claws, stingers, and mandibles,
all weapons deployed and heads will roll. Disabling the enemy is
the primary strategy. Beheading and severing
limbs, the mandibles are the ultimate weapon of war. It’s impossible to
determine who’s winning until the pillaging starts. The marauding Bamboo
giants enter the fortress. They’re conquered
the Rock Samurais and they’ve struck gold. The precious nursery of
developing princesses is ransacked, next year’s
queens killed and cannibalized in their chambers. The sentry can do nothing
but witness the devastation of her precious family.

Honey Bee Colony

Honey Bee Colony


My main mission if I’m going to look into
a hive is to make sure have a good laying queen and there’s ways later on
that we can sample for pests and disease but I don’t always have to find the
queen when I look through a hive because obviously a large hive with seventy,
eighty thousand bees we may not find her but we want to find evidence that she’s
there and has been laying. We want to find healthy brood and eggs and larvae in
various stages. Here we have the queen excluder. This grid allows workers to
pass through but not the queen, therefore we have a brood nest below it and honey
storage above it. There”ll be honey below it as well but this prevents the queen
from laying eggs in the supers that we may potentially harvest and it’s really stuck down. So when you lift your queen excluder, she
can’t be on this side but she could potentially be walking on this side, so you definitely want to inspect that. You’d hate to have your queen on this side and set her off in the grass. I rarely
remove the frame on the wall – the wall of the hive because a lot of times it’s bridged
to the wall and when you pull it you’ll break come and have honey running and
probably crush some bees on the way out. So I usually go for the second frame in.
You can use the hive tool here to pry and separate those frames. That creates space for you to lift that first frame. I’ll lift one edge. I have my fingers on it. This is a little more challenging with gloves but most folks will start by using gloves.
As you gain experience it’ll probably be the first thing you’re happy to leave behind
because you can feel your hands and you’ll be much more careful. I’m coming up nice and straight with that frame. These girls have a nice bunch of honey up top
here. So we’ll show you what we’re looking at. All this is a band of capped honey. In here
we have mostly empty cells, but there is a little pollen and we mentioned drones. There’s a
drone right there at my fingertip. Notice the large eyes on the front of his head.
Compared to the worker he’s blunt, he’s wide, has the very large eyes and then these are all workers around here. There’s the drone. It stands out quite a
bit. Drones don’t have stingers, so if you want to impress
your friends, you can pick up a drone without getting stung. See those large eyes, and he has large eyes because he has one purpose in life and that’s to find the back end of a queen with those big eyes. Now on the other side, we got a lot of workers, a lot
of capped honey. Here’s another drone here. And then in here, I don’t know how well you can see it but there’s a lot of pollen stored in here. Okay, the honey is the bees’ carbohydrate or energy source. That’s what allows them to generate heat in the winter, to survive
the winter when they’re clustered. It allows them to produce energy for flight but
the pollen is what they need, that’s their protein source. That’s what they need to
generate brood food and feed their babies and fatten themselves up for winter as
well as a protein source. So I’ve removed one frame and I’ve
glanced over that to make sure my queen’s not on it, because if she was there I wouldn’t want to set this frame down. I should have brought a perch. There’s a thing called a
frame perch and you can hang this frame on the side of the hive. I just didn’t bring one up so I’m going to carefully rest this frame beside the hive. Now that I’ve created space
here, I can move frames apart and there’s lots of room to lift a frame without
crushing bees are rolling bees on the face of the come. As you pull a frame, if it
gives you a resistance sometimes there’s a bulge in the comb and you’ll role and
crush bees on the face of that. So now that I’ve created space, I can use my tool to pry this frame over into that space and it’s stuck down below so it’s going to
take some work with the tool to pry it up. I’m careful how I place the tool not to crush a lot of bees as I do that but it’s it’s really stuck to the next box below and I can see down in here we’re going to get some brood on this one. So I come straight up
with the frame, nice and deliberately and ok what we’re looking at here – lots of worker bees. We have honey in the corners and
this is where brood is. What you’re seeing here compared to the capped honey – capped honey is very waxy. Capped brood is a little more papery or leathery looking. The
color will vary. On a young come it’ll be real light tan like this. On an old comb
it may be really dark. If they’re bringing in certain kinds of pollen, that may
affect the color so you can’t really go by color on this capped brood but then I
want to look down in these cells. We’re in a shady spot right here but you want the sun coming over your shoulder say from the direction of the camera and
you tilt that frame and get the sun to shine down into the cells and with the sunlight shining down the cells, you should be able to see eggs or larvae and with the angle I’m turning this
frame to get the angle right and I can see that as that capped brood hatched, the
little bit of capped brood we see, the queen has gone in and replaced all those cells
with eggs. Every cell in there’s got an egg in it. So this would be a very good
frame to find the queen on. Very likely you’d find her here because the frame is
covered in eggs. If you see the bottom of the cell there’s it’s a it’s a very tiny
little egg down in the bottom of the cell and then just keep the camera and as we turn this side, the queen was here a little sooner. You know maybe a day or two before, three days ago because there’s a lot of young larvae. We call that milk brood because you can see the jelly
down in the cells. For my purposes I’ve found what I need to find. I know I’ve
got a queen that’s laying well. It’s a robust hive of bees. It’s made almost three
supers full of honey… close to 250 pounds of honey and she’s laying but we’ll go
on to the next frame and see if we can show you a little more. Workers are
raised horizontally; queens are raised vertically. This is not a queen cell so
to speak, but it’s a cup. It’s where they would place an egg and raise a queen
down here. There’s another one on the other side. It’s a little more developed. Right here – you can see into the end of it. Now if that was had an egg or was full of jelly, I would know these bees were replacing
their queen. Either they’d swarmed or they were replacing the queen for some reason. Maybe just a
really really vigorous hive like this is going to send the queen out with a portion of the bees to start a new colony and the raise queens back home to replace her.
That’s where that tool is really useful. I don’t have the finger strength to pull
that frame up just on its own. Here we really going to see something. This is a really nice frame full of capped brood. So this area here, all this light
brown, that’s all capped brood. That’s at nine days after she lays that egg, they put that capping over it and that’s when the bee pupates. That’s when it goes from a worm to pupa which eventually at 21 days hatches and becomes a bee like
you see here. Honey in the corners, a band of pollen around the top of that brood
which may be kind of hard to see but they store the protein for making brood food
right around the brood. Let’s see what the other side has to show us. Lots lots more
capped brood on this side. This queen’s really doing a nice job. Lots of capped brood – some of it’s starting to hatch.
Lots of food around the brood good population; however, this is
deceiving. It’s the time of year when this massive population that made a
large honey crop is susceptible, greatly susceptible to crash in from
these varroa mites. The best hives who makes the most honey, it takes a lot of bees to
make a lot of honey and varroa mites reproduce down under these brood
cappings. I guarantee if we cut some brood open, we’d find mites down under
some of this brood and once that mite population reaches a peak your best
colonies by raising the most brood and having the strongest best honey
gathering ability will be the first ones to crash from mites because they
produced the biggest mite populations. So it’s kind of a sleeper situation. You
think, ‘Oh well they made all that honey and they did so well all season I don’t
have to worry about them’ but they’re the ones you have to worry the most about and so
we’ll be monitoring mite populations and determine if these girls need to be
treated to reduce mite populations at this point in the season.