Stingless bee hive split 🐝


Hi, I’m nick from australiannativebee.com Today I’m going to show you two different types of splits you can do if you have an Existing hive That’s Fairly strong The first is (Exchanging boxes) and this is quite a common sort of split And most boxes are designed to be split this way The first thing you want to check is to see whether the box is really full This one has a clear panel and so I can check that quite easy This is the entrance of the new box and I’ve put a screen over it to keep the bees in and also on the inside of it. I’ve put Native Beeswax around the hole and this will help the bees make an entrance tunnel at a later date The first thing you’ll need to do is undo the straps or the tie downs holding your old full Box Together. I Like to use a propolis chisel or wax chisel to pop the boxes apart because it’s fairly subtle on the open This is actually a Downunder box designed by Dean Haley. It has the honey super at the base of the box I Won’t be touching the honey super today I’m just interested in where the brood is positioned between these two top boxes This box has plywood separators, and you can see they’ve worked quite. Well here. I’m Looking for some queen cells now, and they’re usually situated on the edge of the brood with Tetragonula Carbonaria You can see one up here. It’s a larger cell and also there’s one down here on the edge it’s very important to make sure both halves of the box have an even amount of Brood and The remaining box there has a good amount of brood and it also has two queen cells When doing a split like this you’re taking half the brood and therefore half the “Age of Brood” Meaning there’s going to be a slump in bee numbers When the eggs that are supposed to be there go to hatch, and they’re not there Here I’m sitting the new frame on top of the box Making sure nothing’s in the way because I don’t want pests coming in through that crack between the boxes So I want it nice and tight Place the frame down gently and make sure you blow any bees out of that crack because you don’t want to squash any That’s just bad beekeeping place the honey super on top of the top box and Get ready to tape it up. Here’s what the honey super looks like Now the old frame that came off this box that keys into your new box And you will have made a new colony just by swapping box frames around The last step is to use some tape and run around those cracks in the boxes because syrphid fly Phorid fly and hive beetle all love to get into native boxes that have just been split Where you have broken honey pots and broken Pollen pots After use it around and taped up your box use some warm soapy water to wipe down Any honey or Pollen off the outside of the box Because dean’s box had the entrance hole at the top and my new box has the entrance hole at the bottom I’ll need to drill a new entrance hole for this box and The job will be done The next transfer, we’ll be doing is transferring bees from the smaller box to a larger box in some cases this will work The process is going to be relatively simple we’re simply going to cut out the top section of a box and put it into the new Box I Have already made sure there’s some queen cells in this brood so should take off and make a good colony again, I’m using the propolis chisel and I don’t want to squash any bees. So I’m just slowly working my way around as to just push them out of the way Now I’m going to lift it up put it on top of another box frame so that the brood isn’t being squashed on the ground And I’m going to cut around the edges of this box. So the whole nest structure can be removed as one Have a look at all these bees on the underside of the clear panel Don’t throw this clear panel away because there’s a lot of useful resins on the underside of that that the bees will need Even though this part of the film is in fast-forward you can see how slowly I’m working along the edge This is so the bees have time to move out of the way and don’t get cut in half while you’re cutting the nest structure Once you’ve cut all the way around the nest structure it should lift out and you can place the whole nest structure into your new box Try to Avoid putting any broken honey or pollen pots in I can’t stress this enough Unless you want pests descending on your hive like the angels of hell. Do not do this Once you’ve checked everything is good make sure the nest structure isn’t touching the sides of any of your new box this way the bees can get around and make any necessary repairs to the Nest I Usually will give the bees three days in a room inside my house that way no pests can get to them After the three days up, I will reduce the entrance hole so that only one bee can enter an exit This will give them time to finish their entrance Tube and ward off any pests that might want to enter

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