How to do a Bed Bug Treatment

How to do a Bed Bug Treatment


Hi I’m James from Do My Own Pest Control dot com,
and I’m filming from our product warehouse to talk about how to get rid of bed bugs. At
Do My Own Pest Control dot com, we know that the thought of doing your own bedbug treatment may seem
daunting to you. This is understandable. That’s that’s why we’re going to walk you through a bedbug
treatment step-by-step, so you can learn how to implement your own successful bedbug elimination
treatment. Step 1 – Prepare the space that needs to be treated. This is probably the
hardest part for most folks, but whether you hire a pest control operator or do your own
bedbug treatment, THIS STEP CANNOT BE SKIPPED. It’s time to take a hard look around the room.
Grab a few trash bags and bag up anything you have decided you do not want to keep.
Remember, every item left in the room must be treated in some way to get rid of hidden
bedbugs so if you don’t need it or love it , TOSS IT! Be sure to seal up the bags before
carrying them out of the room to avoid transferring bedbugs to other parts of the home. Gather
any clothing or linens in the room and run them through the dryer on high for about 30
minutes. Place these items in bags or storage containers to avoid re- infestation. Make
sure all drawers, cabinets and under the bed are free of any items, to allow for a complete
and thorough treatment. We get a lot of phone calls at this point because people aren’t
sure if they have to get rid of their mattress and box spring. This is usually a personal
decision but you do not have to get rid of the mattress and box spring. You can instead
choose to encase them in bedbug proof covers. These covers zip up all the way around each
piece and any bedbugs already on the mattress or box spring will be trapped and will eventually
die. Step 2 – is using a heat treatment. This step is optional but we do strongly urge you
to consider it. By using a steamer that reaches bedbug killing temperatures (over 140 degrees Fahrenheit)
you can kill a large number of bedbugs quickly. Most insecticides are not capable of killing
bedbug eggs so using heat is a great option. All heat treatments should be done before
insecticide treatments to avoid degrading the insecticide. Steaming should be done s-l-o-w-l-y
and the steam should be aimed at cracks and crevices. -Step 3 is the actual application
of insecticides. There are no shortcuts here. Foggers or bug bombs should be avoided as
they are rarely useful for bedbug control and can actually force bedbugs deeper into
voids and make elimination take longer. We recommend using a few different products together
in your bedbug program. All of the products must be specifically labeled for bedbugs.
Most programs should include a concentrated liquid insecticide, an aerosol insecticide
and an insecticide dust. We have bedbug kits made specifically for at-home treatment available
on our website, Do My Own Pest Control dot com. Measure and mix the concentrate as recommended on
the product label and apply around baseboards, door frames, window frames, around bed frames,
and under furniture. Allow the treated area to dry before moving on to the next step.
Now that the area is dry you can use the aerosol insecticide. Take the time to use the straw
applicator on the aerosol and treat the very fine cracks and crevices ON and IN furniture
AND around the entire room. Don’t forget drawers, picture frames, bedframes, and any other crack
or crevice you can see. Once again you want to allow this part of the treatment to dry
before moving on to the next step. Last is the dust insecticide. The dust can be applied
using a hand duster to the underside of baseboards, between mattresses and box springs and behind
drawers, in dressers, under furniture, and behind light switches and electrical outlets.
Dusts, while a bit messy, are a great choice for use in places that are less accessible
because they last for several months while sprays and aerosols only last for a few days.
This means dusts can be applied to areas that are hard to access since you only have to
apply them every few months. Step 4. Treat again. Reapplications are necessary every
7-10 days until you do not see ANY evidence of bedbugs for 30 days. Evidence means live
bugs, blood spots on light colored sheets, bites or cast bedbug skins. Most treatment
programs, when performed as directed will require 3-4 retreatments. If you have more
questions, or need any bedbug products, or pest products, please visit our website, Do My Own Pest Control dot com.
Thanks!

8 thoughts on “How to do a Bed Bug Treatment”

  1. please follow actual safety guideline and EPA guides. I will be honest I did not and poisoned myself with a component used to make Agent Orange and it caused me to discard 90% of what was sprayed.

    as for items that need heat treating 30 minutes is not enough.. 140 degrees at about one and a half hours should work.

    New strains of BB are resistant to deltamethin and Premerthin.

    I am currently struggling with active infestation and I'm really familiar with this process.

    good luck and please be safe!

    DE dust has a life span of 3 days..

  2. Is there a sprayer I can use to spray my bed or should I use the aerosol spray ???? I'm having trouble using the sprayer to treat the bed because it makes a mess, and I get some on myself.

  3. Have you contacted your Senators and Congressmen and told them to tell the EPA to let us use more effective pesticides like proproxur and Durban?

  4. Can I buy a bed bug cover … Apply the powder application inside and seal it? While covering with sheets and blankets and sleeping on it? I know it's a silly question, but I haven't seen anyone that has done it this way

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