How To Control Squash Bugs

How To Control Squash Bugs


-[John White] Welcome back to Southwest Yard and
Garden, I’m John White. We’ve been following a garden in the last five months, on our segment called Let’s Get Growing. And this garden belongs to Jan
Brydon, and Jan’s with me. We’ve been looking at the vegetable garden, and the landscape, and the fruit trees, and it looks like the garden is doing very well. -[Jan Brydon] So yes, the vegetables are really coming in John. Yeah, we’re picking zucchini, and
peppers, and cucumbers, and tomatoes, and eggplant, and the grass has greened up, the roses are in second bloom, there’s a crop on the fruit trees. So everything is going very well except for one major thing, and that’s bugs. -[John] Little six legged critters, huh? -[Jan] That’s right. Right now I feel like I’m just kind of staying one jump ahead of the bugs in the garden. So, maybe we can take a look and you can
give me some advice. -[John] Let’s take a look at the garden. Jan on the squash here, I can kind of see how some of the vines are starting to collapse. I would suspicion either you know squash vine borer or a squash bug. Just looking around the plant here we can see evidence of squash bug. Here’s some of the eggs have been laid by the squash bug. I can see them on some other parts of the plant and what we’d like to do is maybe– these are kind of hard to knock off with your finger. So a lot of times, just tearing that part of the leaf off the plant and getting rid of the leaves. I mean getting rid of the eggs that way will help in reducing some of the population. Squash bug is very hard to control because it gets down it the shade of the plant and almost plays hide-and-seek with you. So it’s very hard to get rid of. You can use some insecticides for it. They are not one hundred percent effective. Sevin is one that you can use. Sabadilla is an organic that can be used. But again, it’s just kind of really staying after it. A plant this old, it looks like it’s
starting to succumb to it. You might even want to look at a second planting of
squash. You know, kind of thinking this is eventually going to go out. Just get some more planted and carry it on through. We do want to point out on squash here that this is a male flower on the single stalk, and this is a female flower. It has a fruit like structure just below the the flower on it, so a lot of times people complain about the blooms falling off. They may be just male blooms and they are strictly there for cross pollination. So I’d say the big problem here is probably a squash bug. -[Jan] Okay. So probably
my best bet then is to keep picking and plant another plant. And when this dies,
I’ll be able to go on to the newer plant. -[John] Okay, let’s take a look at another
plant. Okay, on our cucumbers here I noticed we
do have a little bit of what we call stippling. And that’s just the little white
spots starting to show up on the leaf. As you get more of them, they kind of start connecting together and that’s caused by a leaf hopper. When you hit some of the leaves, you’ll see some insects that will jump off fairly quickly and that is leaf hopper. It’s a little tiny insect. Some people call them sharpshooters, but they move sideways as they walk across. But they are fast fliers, and getting wind they can move quite a distance. Very hard to control because they are on a whole host of different plants. So they can jump
from one plant to the other. You know you get rid of some, and they’re back right again. They are a sucking insect, so they are taking some of the juice out of the plant. If you’re hit heavily, they can do some damage. A lot of times the
damage shows up later in the year. There are some insecticides. We have
a product here, that is Safer’s Yard and Garden. It has pyrethrin and the fatty acids
in it that help both control adults, as well as some of the egg and young that
might be on the undersides of the leaves. So that would be a good product to use. That is leaf hopper on it, so I’d be careful with that. -[Jan] I think I just spotted a cucumber beetle on this too. -[John] The ciphers work, the pythons also work on the spotted cucumber beetle. Which is also a foliage pest of the garden. Let’s take a look at another. Okay, with the sweet coin here, Jan was finding, after opening up a
couple ears or at least checking the ends on it, you were fine a little bit
of corn earworm started in them. Most home gardens, and even in commercial fields, a little bit of corn earworm is kind of allowed. So we cut off the top part
and take the bottom part. But if you are trying to control it, the silks here are the female part of the plant. Each one of these silks just about represents a
kernel of corn. So we need to get the pollen from the top of the plant, which is the tassel down to the bottom. But where the corn earworm likes to lay its egg is in these silks here. And then the egg hatches and the little larvae crawls on down. Little caterpillar goes down on into the ear and starts feeding on it. We’re going to be using a material called dye pal or this is insect attack, which basically has the bacillus thuringiensis in it, which is the bt, and this is a little duster can. So we’re going to dust it with some, with some dye
pal. You can kind of see it coming out. This is good for just a couple of days
of protection. So hopefully in that time the silks will have pollinated and then go ahead and start to to die back. Once the silks have turned brown, you’re either
running too late and the ears getting ready to mature. So that’s kind of how
we will take care of that. Hopefully that will take care of ear
worm on these ears that might be developing later. When we come back, we’re
going to look at Jan’s fruit trees, and show her a method on keeping birds off the fruit. And then we’re going to look at what Jan has done on the irrigation system on her lawn. hopefully keeping that grass good and
green. [music]

19 thoughts on “How To Control Squash Bugs”

  1. I had some squash seeds in a pot, and transplanted the squash to a larger pot and noticed little white bugs among the roots, what are these. i live in albuquerque, NM

  2. The organic pesticide Sabadilla is the only thing I have found that works on the little buggers. My problem is that I cannot find it anywhere for sale. I used to get it through Gardens Alive! but they no longer sell it and don't know of anyone who does. Does anybody here know where I can buy it.???

  3. I spend about 2 hours a day fight squash bugs . It helps to watch when you water they will come to the top of the plant making them easier to see

  4. Two words: Row Cover.

    Grow everything in a PVC pipe cage wrapped in summer insect barrier that allows in water, air, and 90% light, and you'll never have worry about any of this..

  5. @1994buttons Are you saying that soapy water kills the eggs? I know it will kill the nymphs and adults but not the eggs.

  6. pehh, my garden is next to the chicken run, i let them into it all winter long and they dig up all the dormant bugs. never get more than half a dozen with no spray.

  7. Squash bugs prefer Bull thistle and the bull thistle is good for you. Them dish washing liquid mixed in water will kill them in seconds!

  8. Bronners tea tree hemp soap…the oils in these soaps help …get a sprayer and run around the garden every morning briefly…slugs, stink bugs cucumber beetles all hate it.The trouble with regular insecticides is the use the element of attraction to the thing that kills them.Beetle traps don't work that well because all they do mostly is attract. Repelling works best to coax them else where although soap with natural oils will kill as well as coax away

  9. whoever wished they not live in Canada, sorry to tell you, they do and I spend up to 3.5 hours a day clearing the plant of all stages of the bugs. What a deterrent to growing squash. I will try the sabadilla. Last year I used some bronner in water and sprayed plants. It dried the plants out. The leaves and stems literally went crispy. Heat has set in now, for the week HOT humid weather. Hopefully the bugs don't worsen, and actually diminish in population and disappear.

  10. I blended some fresh mint leaves in warm water and strained the leaves out (keep it cause so far I used it three times) I added a little dish soap and sprayed it on the buggers and after a few seconds they frose in their tracks…. what a good feeling after trying to duck tape them off for weeks. Thanks everybody for this wonderful idea. next year l start before the leaves turn yellow

  11. Why buy products that come in plastic bottles?? Make your own. Take a medium cigar soak it in a gallon jug of water till the water turns dark brown. Cut this 50/50 in a spray bottle with a drop or 2 of dish soap. This kills every garden pest I have ever encountered.

  12. After 20 years of battling squash bugs, the best combination has been "Dawn" detergent -original blue type. 1 tablespoon Dawn with 32 ounces water in a spray bottle. Spray the mature bugs and the eggs. They die within a few minutes. The mixture is more organic than anything else.  Works well on tomatoes and peppers.

  13. I had the squash borer problem in 2014 summer. This year I'm experimenting with canola oil and water–1 tblspn per quart.  Also a mix of powered sugar and white flour or diatomaceous clay.  The sugar attracts bugs, but they can't digest white flour.  Same with diatomaceous clay except the abrasive power grinds up their guts. I put the mix in a small plastic jar, poke 1/8 inch holes in lid, dampen the leaves, then sprinkle the mix on the leaves.

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